Golden Gate Park
I can finally open up. JFK runs flat to the Cal Academy of Science. There are stop signs, but most are at T intersections and I am on the safe side. A Buddhist monk scampers across in front of me, clutching his robes like so many skirts. Past the CAS, the road tips upward as you curve toward the tunnel beneath Transverse Drive. And then—glories—the descent begins. No substantial climbs until Japan. Before the first curve I’m in my highest gear, the one I only use for stability on downhills. Of a sudden I’m passing the buffalo paddock—I’ve barely seen them, because I usually pass them at this speed, where prolonged contemplation of things on the roadside brings death.
The traffic circle by the model-boat pond draws near. A van is working through in the other direction. Will he turn, or come out on JFK? I can’t see him for the glare, but you don’t look at the eyes anyway. You have to watch their front wheels, guess their intentions. This one is going straight. I risk it and take the circle at full speed. Sharp right to say on JFK. The last few twists before the beach are usually full of cars looking to park on the weekends, but at 9:20 on a Tuesday the road is empty. Finally JFK straightens out: sat on the horizon, near the vanishing point, is a gargantuan container ship.
The Great Highway, South
The wind is with me.
The dunes here are covered with ice plant, an invader from South Africa. Its succulent, red-green leaves always remind me of the alien xenofungus in Sid Meier’s Alpha Centauri. I take it as a sign of progress that I recognize old video games in my outside activities, and not vice versa.
When first Esther and I rode this stretch, it was the day after a storm, and a 40-mile wind sandblasted us for miles. Never since has it been so miserable.
Save for the pavement seams, the only worry is the drifted sand, which at times obliterates the shoulder. But it can be done. Dropping from the Bridge To Nowhere to dirt at speed has made me more confident of this bike’s handling. To my right are surfers, always surfers. 9:30 on a Tuesday—bah, if I’m out here, why can’t they be? The scene reminds me of the video for Neil Halstead’s “Paint A Face”—and suddenly I wish we had a screen door.
Ahead lies the climb, where the Great Highway vaults the low coastal hills and joins Skyline Boulevard. The lanes closest to the ocean are, it seems, forever closed. Of no will of its own, the city is making a strategic retreat from the shore. Blown sand covers the two lanes to the Jersey barriers. Very Akira.
Lake Merced Loop
Every cyclist hates eucalyptus trees. Invasive allelopaths, nothing in North America seems to eat them. No birds or squirrels hustle their seed pods away, no mammal crunches their alkaline, poisoned leaves. And their bark falls off. All of it piles up on the roadside. The leaves and bark are annoying, but it’s the seeds that you fear. Hard enough that you can’t just crush them beneath your wheels—the wheel rides up, yaws to the side, sends the seed skittering off. Your heart skips a beat—will this one take me down? No, but then there’s the next one.
At the southern tip of Lake Merced, where John Muir empties into Lake Merced Boulevard, I juke left to get on the path. It’s a mixed bag. LMB is a horror show to bike, but the path is filled with midagens—my portmanteau of middle-aged Asians. China uses a different algorithm for sharing space, it always seems. No one can shuffle randomly across a path while staring at the ground quite like a midagen. They are out in their dozens, LOVE PINK velour tracksuits and white sneakers flashing. This sort of brisk walking makes me want to mock, but that’s churlish; so many people do even less.
Near the end of the loop, roots have heaved the asphalt.
Greath Highway, North
There is a path that runs alongside the Great Highway, between it and 48th Avenue. I’ve ignored it before. Paths are the devil. On a bike, you’re more car than pedestrian, and you need a road more than a path. Path turns are too sharp, the sight lines are too short, you’re always slowing to get around clueless walkers, and—lest you still manage to get some speed going—planners throw bollards at every crossing.
But today I am an explorer.
The Chalet
God bless Golden Gate Park and its restaurant overlooking the Pacific. God bless the open bathroom on the ground floor of that restaurant.As I lock up outside, a guy has taken his surfboard off of his bicycle (always impressive) and is performing a sort of striptease: with his towel wrapped around his waist he shimmies out of his chinos and begins wriggling into his wetsuit. I’m enjoying this morning of goofing off, but he’s just won.
“Good Morning!” he pipes as I come back out. And he’s right.
Sutro Heights
To bomb down Point Lobos Avenue from Sutro Heights, past the ruins of the baths and sharply left in front of the Cliff House, banking hard on the reverse-camber turn as Ocean Beach swings into view ahead of you, is to die a little. To wrench up that same slope, taking up the entire crumbling inner lane and panting freely as you drag yourself to 48th Avenue, is to die a little more.
I’ve done it once, three days ago. For a mile, coming north on the Great Highway, I’ve been thinking about alternate routes. Just cut into the park and avoid the whole business? How will I feel about that? Cut right and then climb up in the avenues, then back down to the park? Maybe just right into the park.
And then, at the point of no return at the corner of Balboa, I shout “Fuck it!” and put my head down.
The descent is somehow worse than the climb. South on 48th until you can’t any more, then east a block, then south on 47th into the park—all the way feathering the brakes, knowing that I can’t come to a complete stop at this angle without jumping down off the pedals. Scoping out each intersection, hoping no car will pull up and make me do that.
Golden Gate Park, again
MLK is somehow easier to climb than JFK, but I must pay for my earlier indulgence. And this way I can see the bison.
Arguello
From the east end of the park, you can power into the Panhandle and enjoy the slight downhill all the way to Baker Street. Or you can hook a left just before the Conservatory of Flowers, climb a short hill, and point your bike north toward the Presidio. San Francisco is a merciful god, the light on Fulton is with me, and the first two intersections north of the park are two-way stops—and then I catch the lights on Anza and Geary! I am a golden god!
Zoom zoom past Clement, past Euclid, to California. Climbing now. The synagogue looms on the left. The last block of Arguello is the “bump,” a 9.8-percent grade, one of the reasons this bike now has a granny gear. So easy here to accidentally lift the front wheel off the ground. I spread my fingers wide, rest my palms on the drops, put my nose near the handlebars, and push.
The Presidio
Every cyclist loves eucalyptus trees. That menthol smell, the cool air.
There are so many more cyclists here. Packs of three and four, seemingly having just crossed the Golden Gate. Seemingly having just left the house. They stare at me; I’m overdressed, now that the sun is higher in the sky.
They’ve been improving the roads in here. There are curbs where there were no curbs before. Bright red paint. But really you can’t look at them when over there are the Marin headlands.
Fort Point
It’s a human impulse to stop here, under the bridge and near the Civil War-era fort, and survey the bay. There’s no more obvious dead end in San Francisco than this little parking lot, under the bridge, under the Presidio. That said, I’m feeling good and finally warm. I’ve looped and gone back past the dog walkers before their mutts have calmed down.
Crissy Field
Flat, straight and quiet. An even better spot to reach for your top speed than the Great Highway. If only it led to something other than the Marina District.
The Embarcadero
And now back home.




